Make - All Discussions

Welcome to Make: televison!

philliptorrone — Mon, 05 Jan 2009 14:25:48 -0800

Make: television debuted today online and on public television (broadcast / cable tv) on 1/2009. The series encourages everyone to invent, revent, recycle, upcycle, and act up. Based on the popular Make magazine, each half-hour episode hopes to inspire viewers to think, create, and, well, make. Each episode can be viewed or downloaded DRM-free, in HD on makezine.tv - the show is also available on Vimeo, YouTube, blip.tv and iTunes.

here's our about blurb--

About Make: television
Make: is the DIY series for a new generation! It celebrates "Makers" - the inventors, artists, geeks and just plain everyday folks who mix new and old technology to create new-fangled marvels. The series encourages everyone to invent, revent, recycle, upcycle, and act up. Based on the popular Make magazine, each half-hour episode inspires millions to think, create, and, well, make.

Make: began premiering nationwide on Public Television stations and online at makezine.tv in January 2009.

Post your questions and comments about the show here!

Fax machine hell

jschuch — Fri, 06 Nov 2009 15:00:53 -0800

Today the last straw landed on the camel. I'm going to gut my perfectly functional HP printer/fax/copier to scavenge whatever decent parts might be in there because I absolutely refuse to pay $40.00 for another friggin black ink cartridge. Even the off-brand refills are nearly $30.00. To add insult to injury, I can go out and buy a whole new fax machine for less than $70.00!

Since I have to have a fax machine, I started looking for better options. I have a vision of what I want but i can't find it anywhere. Maybe one of you have...

It should be a little box. There should be a connection for the phone line, a connection for power, and an ethernet (or USB) jack. It should look like a printer to my computer, and it should buffer up incoming faxes for review prior to saving, printing, or deleting. And it should work with the computers turned off.

I've googled my fingers black and blue and can't seem to find such a thing. I've seen all of the net-based fax services but I'd have to change my fax number (a bad thing). So, have any of you come across such a device?

Thanks!
John

sideways carousel slide projector?

gregclone — Thu, 05 Nov 2009 22:41:22 -0800

I am trying to come up with a way to place a kodak carousel slide projector on its side and still have it function properly.... the problem is that, when conventionally oriented, the sides are gravity fed from the carousel into the 'chute' which light passes through allowing for projection. When the projector is placed on its side, the slides are no longer able to fall from the carousel into the chute.
Any ideas for a relatively simple way of feeding/ pushing the slides into place?
The projector has an automatic function which allows it to continuously project and advance to the next slide.

I was initially thinking of a wheel which rides on the carousel and a spring loaded pin which forces the slide down. The problem is getting the pin to retract in order for the carousel to advance.

Thanks for any help

Melting Glass

James8734 — Fri, 02 Oct 2009 05:08:43 -0700

I would like to recycle glass at home by making my own glass "pebbles" I don't want to go to the expense of buying a kiln. I am not looking for a professional finish and don't really care what the final product looks like.

I know glass can be melted in a microwave, if started off by a blow torch.

Question 1 What sort of container can I use to hold the glass in while I microwave it?
Question 2 Does anyone have any suggestions for making pebbble moulds?

Industrial motor power supply and control - emergency!

Macadaciouse — Wed, 04 Nov 2009 18:28:36 -0800

I'm working in a theatre and the night before opening, I'm told to find a way to power a flat as it tracks across stage. It's a pully system under the deck lugging a several hundred pound flat. The problem is the rope that was used stretches and moves the flat at 2 miles per hour, so I'm replacing the rope with aircraft cable and finding something other than hand power to pull the flat.

Option one is an industrial motor we've used for automation in the past. It's a Baldor CDP3440, .75HP,1750RPM connected to a 90 degree gearbox. We have the original control box marked
115VAC, 50/60 HZ 0-90VDC, 10 amp 50/100 VDC, 1 amp in
230VAC, 50/60hz 0-180VDC, 10 amp 100-200VDC, 1 amp out
The motor is 90VDC, 7 amp. Are the different values on the control box simply different pins, meaning I could connect it to the 0-180? There's a built in rheostat, if that's the case that will keep me from the full 180VDC. I just found the non-AC outputs (they were inside the housing while the 230vac was printed clearly on the back) so I'll keep looking along that like of though. If not, do these motors have an integral transformer?

I also have an old 1/2hp Dayton. If I can't get the Baldor working, I was going to connect it to a boat winch. That's a lot of fabrication to do in an evening though, especially so close to opening.

I've been tinkering with ideas since 6 (when I was told of the problem), just trying to see if anyone out there has more experience than I.

Audiophile Beginning Electronic Journey

jwinskill09 — Tue, 03 Nov 2009 16:57:59 -0800

Hey makers,

I'm very fascinated with electronic music projects, and am wondering where I should go to learn basic math and theory, as well as kits for projects. My area of interest lies specifically with sound modification and creation, like projects for creating guitar pedals or vocoders. Are there any books/forums/kits you can recommend to a total n00b?

New to Making Things! Need Guidence

simplechords — Wed, 04 Nov 2009 14:48:52 -0800

Hello all! I'm a complete geek that has spent most of his time focusing on building computers and i have a job with in tech support. I recently decided I wanted to get into tinkering with electronics, programing, etc. Let me first say that i have no experience in this area. I can't solder, code, etc. So i was looking for a place to start, and how to expand. I really interested in things like the aurduino and circuit bending and stuff like that. Can anyone point me in the right direction on things i should look at, books projects, or anything else. Thanks in advance.

Best method of proximity detection?

Arctic Wolf — Mon, 02 Nov 2009 16:38:58 -0800

Hello, I was wondering what would be the best approach to make a proximity switched circuit that activated when I put my hand close too (but not making contact with) a sensor, say a distance of about 3" (roughly 8 cm). I had thought about a capacitive sensor but I think you actually have to touch those (or at least be almost touching). I also thought about ultrasonic transducers, but this seems a rather expensive solution to the problem. Any thoughts would be welcome.

AC Electric Motor + Controller for height adjustable desk?

Jakobud — Thu, 29 Oct 2009 14:54:38 -0700

I've been thinking about modding my desk into the fancy electric height adjustable desks that you see for $1000+. But I'm a bit at a loss with regards to what kind of low rpm, high torque AC motor and controller/interface for the project. Does anyone have any suggestions on where I should start?

HP Draftmaster I Plotter

mrlarner — Mon, 02 Nov 2009 13:18:25 -0800

Hello Makers,

I'm in SF and have an HP Draftmaster for sale/trade/donation. I had intention of doing fun things with it, but moved on to the next adventure. Hopefully it will brighten someone else's day. Anyone interested? $100 would be cool, but I'm open and flexible. You'll need a truck :)

-Matt

Ghostbusters Proton packs

cprich22 — Sat, 31 Oct 2009 16:29:28 -0700

Hi.
Im making a replica ghostbusters proton pack and having some trouble with the electronics. i have found a place that sells these light but they are very expensive so i thought i could build one myself.
http://www.hyperdynelabs.com/_images/prod/img_prod_EL_protonLight_1.jpg
this is a picture of the circurt bord and lights that i need. i dont know how to replicate this so all the light light up one by one up to the top and then go off and then back to the star t again. any help would be much apprechiated.
thanks
Ghostbuster

I think we need a bigger motor

CaptRR — Wed, 30 Sep 2009 08:57:10 -0700

Well I think I made a design error. As a fun project I am working on a dvd changing robot. Since I am a poor bastard, its mostly made of wood. The problem I am having is that I made the trolly too heavy for the stepper motor I am using. I tried to redesign the trolly, but just can't get the weight down enough for the stepper to move it effectively.

So I am thinking i need a bigger stepper motor. Currently I am using the stepper motor from spark fun, connecting it to an easydriver. I know that the easydriver can drive up to .8 ohm stepper. So unless i want to add some extra circuitry that is my ceiling.

So what I am asking is where do you guys get your steppers from? I might as well get one with the most torque I can at .8 ohms, but I am not sure of any good retailers that sell that sort of thing.

Thanks for the help.

Baseball/Softball pitching machine?

rrandyy — Tue, 15 Aug 2006 11:55:39 -0700

I'm considering making a softball pitching machine for batting practice. Searching around on the web, I didnt fine any "true" build-it-yourself instructions--only "buy all the parts and assemble it" instructions.

Have any of you guys tried to make a pitching machine before? Any suggestions on where to start? I was thinking of using an old gas engine from an edger as the power source.

LED wallboard display hacking

fridgehead — Mon, 12 Nov 2007 14:31:36 -0800

I've just inherited one of these:

an led wallboard display
However, I have no idea how to interface with it. Its labelled as using rs232 but has an rj11 socket on it (and oddly a standard BT phone plug on the other end). The model is "gemini 42" by a company called "ferrograph". It was used as a call center wallboard and plugged into the ACD system there.
I'm really hoping someone has an idea how to use it or ideas for getting it working!

Nespresso Coffee Pods

Longstreet — Wed, 05 Dec 2007 18:13:40 -0800

Like many people, I own coffee maker that uses disposable capsules. Although I really enjoy the ease of using the machine in the mornings or at parties, I am concerned that the capsules are wasteful and Nespresso offers no Fair Trade coffee in their entire line. I thought about just getting rid of the machine, but is there a way of "taking it back" ?

pitching machin

GT34 — Fri, 30 Oct 2009 10:01:32 -0700

ANY BODY can give instruction how to make a pitchin machin in spanish please
o video

Looking for Bevel gears or equivalent

DaytimeDreamer — Mon, 26 Oct 2009 12:45:44 -0700

I've been working out some plans for a prototype version of the electricity free table saw for the past couple of weeks. I work with small wood parts frequently and would love one, but can't justify the price tag. That it was posted on the Make blog means I should reach out and ask for some help:
http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2009/10/electricity-free_tables_aw.html

The aspect I'm having the most trouble with is the blade raising mech. I think bevel gears (much like theirs) would be the way to go, but I know admittedly little about specs for gears. I'm having trouble finding affordable gears to try out in a prototype.

I briefly considered a worm gear setup (I have one from an old garage door opener), but felt that it would be far too slow. After watching the vid a couple dozen times, I came upon the conclusion that you want about a 1:1 ratio (or very close to it) for cranking the threaded rod. Since you're turning a rod that raises and lowers the saw itself, you're already getting quite a bit of control over the height. Going any finer and it would really slow the process down.

I've looked into several sets of differential bevel gears used in RC cars, but I think they're likely too small (the shaft diameter typically maxes out at 1/8"). While I suppose I could have an 1/8" shaft drive a 1/4" threaded rod for the lift, I think it'd be better to work at 1/4" all the way through.

I saw a die cast set of gears on my stove top popcorn maker (<$20) so there must be a source for these that's affordable to play with. Unfortunately, I JUST threw out an old mixer that probably had some gears in it.... It figures.

I'm also considering using a wooden gear box similar to this:
http://woodgears.ca/router_lift/index.html

The downside is that it's much bulkier than an all metal solution and would likely hamper the tilt mechanism or at least make the whole structure far larger than I'd like. The upside is that it'd be fairly inexpensive prototype for the basic table. It'd probably be better adding the tilt after I figure out if it can be made by me at all anyway.

In case anyone was wondering, I was going to use the stop motion dolly plans as a base for the sliding table parts:
http://www.stopmotionworks.com/articles/stopmocamdolly.htm

I had been debating whether to just slide the pieces across the work surface, or do a sliding table. I think I'm going to try for the sliding table. Again, working with very small pieces is one of the primary reasons for trying this out, I think the sliding table may be the way to go, but may also be the first "feature" to be dropped.

Well, if anyone has some nifty suggestions for changing horizontal rotary crank motion in to vertical rotarty motion, I would love to hear it. Even better would be a good source for affordable bevel gears (I'm looking at $10 per set if that's even possible).

Identifying components?

npkeith — Thu, 29 Oct 2009 20:56:47 -0700

II'm new at this, so if the answer is obvious, please don't bite my head off... Beyond the obvious, like band-coded resistors and labled caps, how do I identify parts when I'm cannibalizing some junked electronics? Case in point: I hav a crap multicard reader that died, so I'm stripping it. Most of the board is surface mount, and not much use to me at this point in my game (I'm still working on getting a good bead with lead based solder, let alone dealing with stuff I'd need tweezers for). There is a nice green LED, a couple of diodes that I might be able to work with, and something that looks like a crystal- in an oval can, etched with 12.000H3C. Googling that gives no results (amazing as that is in itself). How do I find out any more about it? I have a multimeter and a crap $15 soldering iron, no acess to a wigglescope. Where do I go from here?

Motion Activated Sound

kenzlo — Thu, 29 Oct 2009 14:27:25 -0700

I'm an artist working on a new project. The idea is to have a speaker that emits sound when someone walks past it. The goal is to have a motion sensor trigger the sound instead of a button or a switch. The budget for this is, well a budget. So any tips on how to do this cheap is better than anything else if possible. I'm a novice when it comes to motion activated things, but it's an interesting concept as an artist. Any tips would be helpful.

Micro PC form factor to drive LED sign

tomasz@gmail.com — Wed, 28 Oct 2009 00:53:05 -0700

I have some old LED signs that I'd like to put to use in my new office. Both of them have serial interfaces that can communicate with an open source linux driver. Space wise it's a bit of a mess to keep a whole PC by them so I'd like to instead have a tiny form factor (wall wart) to pull new content from the web and display it on the sign.

Effectively I need a cheap linux wall wart that has network, serial and/or usb.

I know of the Marvell SheevaPlug which currently sells for $99 but I'm having trouble finding out anything else out there. Is there something that does the same but at a cheaper price?

need a little design help / parts names

emick — Wed, 28 Oct 2009 23:41:12 -0700

I'm temporarily bed-ridden and am trying to figure out a design for laptop stand that suits my needs. Most of the designs for stands that could be used in bed are suitable for someone propped up from behind. like this:

http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2008/02/bedtop_computer_stand.html

Because I spend a good deal of my recovery time lying on my sides and stomach, I need to come up with a stand which I can position so that the screen can be viewed from virtually any angle.

The only thing i can envision is something like a VESA arm mounted to the wall behind the headboard, which can then extend out/down to the right position. On the end of the VESA arm, I'm envisioning a tray that the laptop sits on mounted to some kind of 360 degree swivel ball joint. As long as I firmly attach the laptop to the tray somehow, I'd then be able to swivel the tray in any direction so that the screen was positioned for optimal viewing, regardless of which way my poor little head was laying in bed.

Here's a $500 commercial LCD monitor stand almost exactly what I'm looking for, but I'm hoping to find someone who's built something similar for a lot less.

http://www.ergomart.com/HD_LCD_monitor_arms/lcd_monitor_arm_SAA66.htm#adjustability

The parts question I had is re: the 360 swivel ball joint (something like they've used here maybe, except larger?) . http://www.totalcnctools.com/item.php?itemid=106

does anyone know of a source for swivel joints like this which either can be locked into position or which have stiff enough tension that, once positioned it will stay put? Am I barking up the wrong tree by trying to use a joint like this to mount the laptop tray to the articulating arm?

Any ideas or help would be appreciated

(Also, can I get someone to fluff my pillows :)

Maker Faire Austin '09??

ChadRM — Thu, 04 Jun 2009 07:13:44 -0700

I can't find any information on Maker Faire Austin 2009... I'm hoping that doesn't mean it's not going to happen. Does anyone know? Austin <3s Maker Faire!

Chad

DC air pump and 5 port solenoid.

astroboyqu — Wed, 28 Oct 2009 11:44:53 -0700

Hello everyone, I recently posted about using cylinder plunger system to pump air, decided against it and to go with an air pump.

What i need is a DC air pump. preferably on the small size. basically something i can control with my computer. the only one I can seem to find online is model HZ-035A from age of aquariums... does anyone know a better air pump? or a cheaper one? I would really appreciate it.

The other thing is i am going to control the flow with the airpump either in or out of a canister. My friend suggested a 5 port solenoid valve, however there seem to be hundreds of kinds and Im not sure what i need.

bassically i need two positions, the airpump will connect its input to one and output to another port, and in one position the input will be connected to atmosphere and the output connected to the canister, and for draining the input will be connected to the canister and the output to atmosphere.

can anyone help me in finding a suitable solenoid? or perhaps another way of doing this? I am no engineer so I am having a few problems getting my head around all the diagrams.

Building or finding an actuator controlled air pump

astroboyqu — Sun, 25 Oct 2009 10:28:10 -0700

Hey everyone! first time poster here.

So I am trying to change the pressure in a container in a controlled way, and since using an air pump and a pressure reader seemed overly complicated. I was trying to figure out if i could find, or if i could build some sort of air piston.

basically what i want is a digitally controllable, cylinder open at one end, so it can be connected to the container, so that if i connect it to the container i can change the pressure in the container simply by moving this piston? actuator? a certain amount and be able to control it the whole way through. meaning if it was to inflate a balloon i would want to be able to deflate or inflate it any amount simply by using the distance i have moved the piston/actuator.

anyone know a simple way to build this? or an already built version of this that I can find? Forgive me for my terminology, I'm no engineer :P so if I make some mistakes feel free to correct me.

the other part is I am looking into 3D metal printing to build the container, since although i have access to a 3D plastic printer, as far as i know you can't print holes or threads for screwing pieces together.

anyone know price estimates for 3D metal printing? or if I am overcomplicating it and there is a simpler way, I would like to know.

Thank you all for taking the time to read this. and I look forward to your replies.

remote control spycam?

txironhead — Sun, 25 Oct 2009 00:19:28 -0700

I'm trying to figure out how to make one of the mini spycams like the one here: http://cgi.ebay.com/New-wireless-spy-color-audio-Camera-System-adapters_W0QQitemZ160371619238QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item2556e4b5a6
remote controlled via wireless keyfob or even an old cheap remote control car control. I'm trying to make this cam completely hidden and wireless, so I'd have to use the 9v adapter, but I don't need it on all the time. I'm trying to find out which one of my friends is stealing from me, but they're pretty observant and would notice wires, cameras, etc.

I might even consider using one of the "keyfob" or "gum pack" "dvr" cameras found pretty cheap on Ebay. I read the hack about using a motion detector, but that's pretty bulky when it's finished, although a motion detector that would be small and stop recording after a set time, say 20 minutes or so, would be great. Overall, if I could set it up to turn on (and preferably off) via keyfob or some sort of remote, that would probably be the best bet. If I use the one with a receiver, I can set it up to record automatically to my hard drive when it's powered on (tv card comes in handy), or if I get one of the mini dvr types (more likely) I can always view it on my computer later, and most of them have 4-8Gig recording and LION batteries.

Most important is that this setup be fairly cheap and small. My soldering skills aren't fantastic, but I can do a bit. I've even thought about getting some clearance Halloween toys that have the motion detector and using that since they seem to be a fairly small circuit and run on low current. Ugly doesn't matter, because I'll be installing this into an object to camouflage it, but small and cheap DO matter. If there were some way to remotely power it up and also have the record function attached to the motion detector, even better, but either will suffice. I plan on installing this into either a small alarm clock or a wall hanging of some sort.

Convert mp3 to WAV with hardware

Macadaciouse — Sun, 18 Oct 2009 08:08:30 -0700

Hey all,
I'd like to use oscilloscope software for audio visualization on a computer, only catch is most scope software (even software designed primarily to be entertaining) requires either uncompressed WAV files or a direct feed from a mic. Could I wire a loop with 2 1/8" jacks to cycle the sound around while still running it through an amp with a 3rd line?

creating large surface for project

lululatouche — Mon, 26 Oct 2009 07:53:33 -0700

Hi,

I'm trying to create a large surface for a project.
It should look like a rocky planet with impact craters, something like 4x4 meters or yards in size.I've tried isolation foam but It's expensive and I need more volume . stuff should be light preferably.
So basically any suggestions on similar inexpensive materials would be great, thanks ! !

Making a USB collective control for Flight Sim helicopter

hhietala — Sun, 25 Oct 2009 10:39:57 -0700

Hi gurus

my 13 yr old son flies the FSX a lot. We got to discuss how to make a collective control. It's a lever, by lifting which you control the blade angle of attack, and by turning which you control throttle.

As I see it, it'd be a simple 2 potentiometer system, where one pot is at the lever's hinge, and the other at the lever's handle for rotation.

I am a n00b if there ever was one, but I would just like to hear whether this is feasible at all?

Many thanks

hhietala

Need troubleshooting help with "animated ghost" kit

sej@aol.com — Wed, 21 Oct 2009 16:23:27 -0700

Has anyone here built the "Animated Ghost" kit from the Maker Shed?

I've learned how to solder, but really don't know much about troubleshooting. I have a multimeter but am not too smart about using it.

My assembled kit has a small problem. The red LED eyes refuse to light.

I used a charged capacitor to confirm that the LEDs themselves function.

When the ghost is switched on, the motor occasionally spins and the speaker occasionally emits music or noise, so I know the ghost is basically functional.

I know that a resistor and a capacitor lead into the LEDs. My solder connections look OK. The IC's pins are not bent.

I ran through the sensitivity adjustment step, which apparently should result in the eyes blinking. Doesn't happen.

What I could use are suggestions as to how to "force" blinking, or where to touch a voltmeter to determine where the problem is. I have the schematic.

Thanks,

Stefan

Removable Window sound proofing. Concept RFC.

Vocalexander — Thu, 15 Oct 2009 09:47:08 -0700

I'm working on creating a home recording studio for voice over recordings. My goal is to get audition-quality (rather than production-quality) recordings, but I'd like that audition recording to sound as good as I can make it... on a budget.

One problem is that I'm living in a rented apartment in a noisy neighborhood, so I have a lot of noise to eliminate, but I don't want to do anything too permanent, and I want to be able to use the windows too (one of them's the fire escape). Oh, and I want to be able to see through them. So here's my plan, and I'd appreciate expert opinions on whether it would work at all, or just be a colossal waste of time:

Create an insert for the window from two plexiglass sheets forming a sealed air sandwich, separated at the edges by 1/2" of insulating foam. The insert would fit as snugly as possible in the window, and have a squishy foam rim larger than the window frame, so that the whole thing could be popped in and out and the foam would seal the edges. I'm contemplating putting gaffer tape (or something similar) over the foam rim to protect it, while staying flexible, but I'm concerned I'd lose the seal.

Is the concept sound? Or is my lack of acoustic physics burning me? Any recommendations on materials? Am I missing some obvious maker alternative?

I recognize that a fully-fledged maker would just build himself an iso booth, which I may in fact do, but being able to eliminate some of the street noise at will would be a good thing anyway.

Cheers,
Alexander