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The simplest approach would be to start with a step-down transformer to get the 220 Volts down to something more reasonable, such as 13 Volts or so. Then, run this through a full wave bridge rectifier, which will produce somewhere around 18 Volts. You'll need a pretty good sized electrolytic filter capacitor to filter the pulsating DC out of the rectifier assembly into smoothed DC. The exact size will depend upon your current consumption, but will probably need to be several thousand uF, up to a few tens of thousands of uF (with a voltage rating appropriate.
You'd then follow that with the appropriate linear voltage regulators, such as 7805 and 7812 chips. Note that 78xx series voltage regulators come in several sizes, all the way from tiny TO-92 packaged devices, which are only good for a few milliAmps of current, up through TO-220 packaged devices, which are good for approximately 1 Amp of current, and even to TO-3 packaged devices, which are usually good for about 3 Amps of current (although the TO-3 packaged devices are somewhat hard to find, and are becoming obsolete). For higher current levels, you'll need to drive a power pass transistor with the voltage regulator. I've seen some designs with over a dozen 2N3055 pass transistors in parallel, good for well over 40 Amps!
Of course, you'll need to have the transformer and diode bridge rated to handle the combined current that you're planning on pulling (You can't get something for nothing). Plus, you'll need to mount the 78xx devices on a rather largish heat-sink. Use thermal grease to assist with the heat conduction. Yes, the heat sink very well may dictate the size of the enclosure it's built into. You can cheat a bit, if you need to, by adding a fan that will blow air across the heat-sinks. And, the heat sinks either need to go on the outside of the enclosure (so that the produced heat isn't all bottled up inside the enclosure), or the enclosure needs to have LOTS of largish holes to allow air to flow in and across the heat-sinks. The general rule is that if the heat-sinks are too hot to touch, then they're too small.
Oh, yeah, there are other niceties, such as fusing the input, adding a power switch and indicator light (For that matter, you may want to consider adding LEDs to each output as indicator lights, too, but that's going down the road of "creeping featuritis".). You could also add voltage and current meters if that strikes your fancy. Plus, a bleeder resistor across the filter capacitor will prevent unexpected arcs and sparks while working on the device after you've switched it off (since filter capacitors can hold a significant charge for a LONG time).